The Knife and Fork

One man's opinion on cooking (and drinking)

Tuesday, November 01, 2005

Sweetbread update

I couldn't resist. While browsing the meat department at Spencer's I stumbled across the velvety, white flesh pressing up against the plastic wrap. The absurdly low price sealed the deal - I had to try to make sweetbreads at home. I asked the butcher lady and she said she'd never tried them let alone cooked them but "the cowboys buy them all the time". I wondered what they did with them as I tossed them into my basket. When I got home I scoured cookbooks and found the best information from my old Julia Child and James Beard recipes. Removing the outer membrane, soaking/flushing with cold water and par boiling seemed like consistent guidelines (although some think parboiling removes too much flavor but these are the same nuts who talk glowingly about mutton). I spent a fair amount of time cleaning them up by pulling and trimming excess fat and membrane while rinsing. I also soaked them overnight. All this was done covertly, without the wife's knowledge, for her benefit (the concept would just upset her). I really wanted to grill them but most recipes were for boiling or sauteeing. I was grilling chicken breasts for dinner the next night so I decided to use my best judgment and grill up the gland at the same time. As the waiter at Jocko's told me, they took a long time to cook. But unlike the sweetbreads I had at Jocko's a few months ago these were not too chewy. I grilled them for about 45 minutes with great results. The golden crust contrasted nicely with the interior that lacks any English language description I can provide. They were mild, tender and tasty. The wife refused to eat more than a piece smaller than my Adam's apple. She admitted it was good but she wasn't in the mood for secretion organ meat that night.

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